TTR125 and CRF/XR100
Good news! BBR’s online ordering is up and running! You can officially order BBR parts during off hours, the weekend or in the middle of the night if you need to. It’s great to see how many people have already tried it out. I spent the last couple years restoring a Plymouth Barracuda with my family and became a big fan of online ordering. Can’t tell you how many times I was deep into the project when I realized I was missing a seal, a bolt or some special part. I would simply run to the computer and get it on its way – any time of the day or night! I hope BBR’s online ordering works out just as well for you. Of course, we still have the best phone staff in the industry if you prefer to order over the phone.
Okay, this week we want to talk about the CRF/XR100 and the TT-R125. We get a lot of questions asking what are the “must have” parts are for these bikes. They make a great playbike, girlfriend bike, or kid’s bikes, and are a total blast in the back yard with your buddies.
Okay, this week we want to talk about the CRF/XR100 and the TT-R125. We get a lot of questions asking what are the “must have” parts are for these bikes. They make a great playbike, girlfriend bike, or kid’s bikes, and are a total blast in the back yard with your buddies.
At the top of the list of must have items is the frame cradle. Both bikes are designed so the engine is a stress-member of the frame. If you jump too high or put too much stress on the frame, the engine cases will break at the motor mount bolts. Then you have an expensive mess to fix! The cradle helps support the frame and engine as well as protecting the underside of your motor.
The second must have item are the BBR fork and shock springs. Both bikes come set up for beginning kids with super soft spring rates. By adding the springs it helps to hold the bike up into the softer part of the travel, plus they help eliminate bottoming (which is a dirt bike’s worst enemy). A tip you can use when installing the fork springs is to install them one at a time. If you put one in and the forks are still not stiff enough, then install the second one. Usually, on the TTR and the CRF100 you can run the stock 10 weight oil. For bigger or faster riders we like to switch to 20 or even 30 weight oil to slow the rebound and compression down from the heavier fork springs. Make sure to not use more oil than is specified in the owner’s manual. Too much oil can cause hydraulic lock resulting in blown fork seals.
The third most important item is the chain guide. Both of these bikes are notorious for blowing the chain off and breaking a hole through the cases. That makes for a long day. Our chain guides literally guide the chain onto the sprocket helping prevent a thrown chain.
Fourth on the list is the big bore kit. Both kits come with everything you need for easy installation including a complete cylinder, piston, cam, and gaskets. A big bore kit is more work than some of the other mods, but the payoff is worth it. If you don’t feel comfortable installing these kits, most local motorcycle shops can handle it for you.
On the TTR125 motor, it is almost mandatory that you run the Free-Flow filter with the bore kit or pipe. It uses a huge (compared to stock) UNI air filter and comes with a new filter backing plate (contoured for high air flow). Horsepower increase is better than ½ horsepower on almost any TTR125.
Fifth on the list is the exhaust system. Both bikes come about as corked-up as they can get away with and still run. BBR makes its new D2 exhaust system for both bikes that lets them rev-out much farther. When choosing an exhaust be careful what you buy. Of course, we recommend our own exhaust because we have a huge amount of R&D time developing the best mini-bike exhausts in the world. We continue to refine these pipes even after they’re in production.
Alright, that is the top five or so. BBR makes lots of other products for these two great bikes, including the perimeter frame kit, so feel free to check them all out on our product pages. I've included part numbers and links to all these products below.
CRF/XR100
Cradle 320-HXR-1011
Fork Springs 650-HXR-1005
Shock Spring 660-HXR-1005
Chain Guide 340-HXR-1011
120 Bore Kit 411-HXR-1001
D2 Exhaust 205-HXR-1031
TTR 125
Free Flow 430-YTR-1201
Cradle 321-YTR-1231
Fork Springs 650-YTR-1205
Shock Spring 660-YTR-1205
Chain Guide 340-YTR-1211
150 Bore Kit 411-YTR-1201
D2 Exhaust 205-YTR-1231
Question of the Week
You guys are the kings of the 150 so I thought I would ask you this: Which is a better bike, the CRF150R or the CRF150F? I am going to be trail riding and doing an occasional race/poker run plus my girlfriend wants to ride the bike once in a while.
This is a tough one. If you are going to be racing a bunch and need maximum horsepower and suspension, then the R is for you. These bikes ride very similar to a two- stroke race 85. They make their best power screaming at 12 thousand rpm. If you are going to be trail riding and riding in tight stuff you can’t beat the electric start and soft suspension of the F model. The F model is super torquey and likes to be short shifted. Think of the F as fun and the R as race. When I go riding with my friends and family up in the woods I always take the F. If I am headed to the track I load up the R and have a blast in the vet class. The other thing to consider is the cost of maintenance. The F is virtually indestructible while the R is going to require some service to keep its 12 thousand RPM engine singing…..Hope this helps – Duane
Blast from the Past
This week’s blast from the past comes from the guys at MXA. In the July 2003 issue they had us build the trickest stock framed TTR 125 possible. Check out the article by clicking on the photo right here:
That’s it for this week – Keep in touch – call if you have any questions – and as always thanks for helping us live the dream! Duane
The second must have item are the BBR fork and shock springs. Both bikes come set up for beginning kids with super soft spring rates. By adding the springs it helps to hold the bike up into the softer part of the travel, plus they help eliminate bottoming (which is a dirt bike’s worst enemy). A tip you can use when installing the fork springs is to install them one at a time. If you put one in and the forks are still not stiff enough, then install the second one. Usually, on the TTR and the CRF100 you can run the stock 10 weight oil. For bigger or faster riders we like to switch to 20 or even 30 weight oil to slow the rebound and compression down from the heavier fork springs. Make sure to not use more oil than is specified in the owner’s manual. Too much oil can cause hydraulic lock resulting in blown fork seals.
The third most important item is the chain guide. Both of these bikes are notorious for blowing the chain off and breaking a hole through the cases. That makes for a long day. Our chain guides literally guide the chain onto the sprocket helping prevent a thrown chain.
Fourth on the list is the big bore kit. Both kits come with everything you need for easy installation including a complete cylinder, piston, cam, and gaskets. A big bore kit is more work than some of the other mods, but the payoff is worth it. If you don’t feel comfortable installing these kits, most local motorcycle shops can handle it for you.
On the TTR125 motor, it is almost mandatory that you run the Free-Flow filter with the bore kit or pipe. It uses a huge (compared to stock) UNI air filter and comes with a new filter backing plate (contoured for high air flow). Horsepower increase is better than ½ horsepower on almost any TTR125.
Fifth on the list is the exhaust system. Both bikes come about as corked-up as they can get away with and still run. BBR makes its new D2 exhaust system for both bikes that lets them rev-out much farther. When choosing an exhaust be careful what you buy. Of course, we recommend our own exhaust because we have a huge amount of R&D time developing the best mini-bike exhausts in the world. We continue to refine these pipes even after they’re in production.
Alright, that is the top five or so. BBR makes lots of other products for these two great bikes, including the perimeter frame kit, so feel free to check them all out on our product pages. I've included part numbers and links to all these products below.
CRF/XR100
Cradle 320-HXR-1011
Fork Springs 650-HXR-1005
Shock Spring 660-HXR-1005
Chain Guide 340-HXR-1011
120 Bore Kit 411-HXR-1001
D2 Exhaust 205-HXR-1031
TTR 125
Free Flow 430-YTR-1201
Cradle 321-YTR-1231
Fork Springs 650-YTR-1205
Shock Spring 660-YTR-1205
Chain Guide 340-YTR-1211
150 Bore Kit 411-YTR-1201
D2 Exhaust 205-YTR-1231
Question of the Week
You guys are the kings of the 150 so I thought I would ask you this: Which is a better bike, the CRF150R or the CRF150F? I am going to be trail riding and doing an occasional race/poker run plus my girlfriend wants to ride the bike once in a while.
This is a tough one. If you are going to be racing a bunch and need maximum horsepower and suspension, then the R is for you. These bikes ride very similar to a two- stroke race 85. They make their best power screaming at 12 thousand rpm. If you are going to be trail riding and riding in tight stuff you can’t beat the electric start and soft suspension of the F model. The F model is super torquey and likes to be short shifted. Think of the F as fun and the R as race. When I go riding with my friends and family up in the woods I always take the F. If I am headed to the track I load up the R and have a blast in the vet class. The other thing to consider is the cost of maintenance. The F is virtually indestructible while the R is going to require some service to keep its 12 thousand RPM engine singing…..Hope this helps – Duane
Blast from the Past
This week’s blast from the past comes from the guys at MXA. In the July 2003 issue they had us build the trickest stock framed TTR 125 possible. Check out the article by clicking on the photo right here:
That’s it for this week – Keep in touch – call if you have any questions – and as always thanks for helping us live the dream! Duane
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